1992 plymouth voyager - rough idles some times shows no codes and no heat from heater at idles
Rough idle sometimes occurs at start up. In the summer the ac will not work until the car is pulled off the road, motor killed and engine restarted. I have replaced all sensors on motor, oxygen, throttle position, etc.
Throttle body has been removed and cleaned and new gaskets installed. No Help!
No computer codes.
The second problem is the heater--does not work at idle. Only works when rpms are at 2000 or better. I have checked the heater core and flushed it and the heater control valve-found no problem. This is a 3.0 V-6 1992 Phymouth Voyager. I have owned it for only 1 year. I'm down to replacing the computer on the idling problem. When the computer detects rought idle or wide open throttle, it shuts the ac down. Would like some help. Thanks, Tracy. (Slickguy is my son.)
Comments
Tracy, your rough idle on
Tracy, your rough idle on startup could be caused by just about anything...A too-high-restistance plug wire, a plug wire intermittently shorting to ground, a fouled plug, a carbon tracked distributor cap, malfuntioning computer temperature sensor, a sticking intake or exhaust valve, just off top of my head. To stop the parts-throwing game and get to the problem, you will need to leave the van with a reputable/competent garage who will perservere through the problem. Those are rare. And most likely not inexpensive. I would generically recommend a dealer, as a dealer is most likely to have the specialized training and the required diagnostic tools, although there are many sorry dealer service departments, and there are many really good independent garages. It would appear, though, that whoever has been doing the work so far knows more about replacing parts than about diagnosis. Same thing with the AC problem... it would be useful to know if there is voltage to the compressor clutch coil when it quits; if not, why not? Is the loss of voltage in the clutch relay? In a pressure switch? Is the computer showing a AC request at the time? Some real diagnosis needs to be done that can only be done hands-on, and the only way it can be done is with a real automotive diagnostician being present, with his equipment, when the problem is occurring. The more intermittent the problem is, the more expensive it will be because of the time it will take, and in automotive repair time is money.
The heater problem is caused by lack of coolant flow through the heater core at low engine speeds. Usually (80-90% of the time) this is caused by a partially clogged heater core or hose, or low coolant. If clogging is bad enough, a casual flush will not correct the problem. Sometimes the core just has to be replaced. Barring a clogged heater core, the water pump impeller blades may be corroded to the point where they aren't moving much water. This is pretty rare, though, and usually is accompanied by overheating also. Wish I could have been more help. Congrats on Slickguy being your son.
You are to be congratulated
You are to be congratulated that you have not set your coil on fire. I fear, though, that it may already be too late for components of the fuel system, since you don't mention that they also escaped the flames, and with the fuel contained in them they are indeed more at risk. Once you have repaired the fire damage to the fuel system, check the positive primary lead to the coil for the presence of battery voltage with either a voltmeter or a 12-volt test light, with the ignition in the "on" position. If 12 volts is not present there, then GETTING 12 volts to that wire should be your first goal in getting your engine restored to running condition.